Excerpt from Fashioning Fashion exhibition in Paris



70's blouse

Wearable 70's blouse to be precise.

When I look at a 70's pattern jacket photo, I always feel like a real estate agent saying to a customer "you have to imagine it with your own decoration". Wondering if, maybe, the stylist was color blind.
Yes, you have to imagine it, because 70's were not all about flared pants and super short jackets (think BeeGees).

And I set myself to make this wearable :

I choose to make the #4.
I modified the pattern to use the finishing technique explained in the previous post. (I hate the large facings they choose to use).
And I choose a cotton from my stash, something quilt weight-like, a real pleasure to sew.

The small flowers are a bit corny but I like the result, and it's super comfy.
And the tie ends make for perfect adjustment.
But I will have to sew a discrete snap between the top buttons as I think the gap there is a bit disgraceful.

Finishing technique : facing with bias tape

I first used this technique for some armhole finishings on a sleeveless shirt a while back during training in a garment factory.

It's really easy and quick to do (hence used in the RTW process).

What it looks like, on a garment. (you can see it on the left, on the peplums' edges)

I used a retail 4cm bias tape folded in 4. Ideally a self-fabric bias tape is better, because this kind of finishing requires to fold in 3, whereas retail bias is folded in 4.

As the folds of my bias are 1cm, I let a 1cm seam allowance. I put my bias on the edge on the right side and sew in the middle of the tape. Then I cut the external fold of my bias (you don't have to do this if you use self-fabric bias).

Turn your bias on the wrong side, press, and stitch at 1mm.

I choose to use this technique on this blouse because the fabric is a bit too light for large facings, as the pattern was initially designed, and also because it has rounded edges, and I didn't see myself hemstitching them. (nervously, I couldn't)

I also used it on a knit fabric, for a garment that didn't need stretch on the edges. (but I could have used a stretch bias tape)

Cordova fail

And I was so eager. But...

First, I wanted to use faux leather, and I forgot to buy a teflon presser foot.

Also, Sewaholic patterns are for pear-shaped people, and I had to modify the pattern, taking 4 and 6 sizes down at the waist and hip. I hoped it would be ok. Well...

And then, faux leather. Making faux leather to obey. Ironing faux leather. Sewing curves in faux leather. Blind hemming faux leather. Aaaaargh faux leather.

Now on to the result.

No, you won't see me in it. Well, not now. Maybe in spring, with less clothes underneath, so I don't look like I took 15kg all of a sudden...

Did I tell you that, with each movement, it squeaks ?

Strangely, sewing the zipper was fairly easy (no basting allowed). It was also the opportuny to learn to shorten a metallic zipper.

So we'll say that, with all the lessons learned, it's just a half-fail.

What awaits me in 2013

 

My first complex bag. With plastic grid for the bottom and all. (hope my machine won't hate me).

My first corset. I've wanted to learn this for a long time, and always coveted the kits from Sew Curvy. Now, I'm tempted to chicken out...

 Another great pattern from Sewaholic. In white faux croco and panther lining. And I intend to wear it outside.

 70's jacket. In pink faux fur and dark navy corduroy. (like the blue and yellow one). I'll see if I dare to wear it outside...

 Something (really) useful. And easy. And, I hope, the first of many more to come.

And the real showdown. Re-sizing this. Successfully. Because I've found the perfect fabrics for this. Black Dior velvet, and black Chanel satin. (Just thinking about it makes me scream in my head).

Any plans for the year to come ?